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Through the Auvergne on our way to
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Through the Auvergne on our way to South-West France
On our way to stay with our friends with a chateau near Biarritz, we went through the Auvergne because of possible (likely) connexions with Ken's family. The route we chose, to avoid Paris, was:- Calais; A16 via Boulogne, Abbeville to Rouen; South from Rouen via Dreux & Chartres to Rlean; South (A71 & A75) to J8 & through the Auvergne via Aurrilac & Maurs (overnight stop) to Toulouse; A64 with a diversion to the Col du Soulor from Tarbes & back to Pau & the A64, leaving the A64 at Payrourade & going on to St. Marie de Gosse.
The first night was spent in an Etap Hotel South of Orleans, bleak but adequate. Franch is not good for little family hotels (unlike German-speaking countries) & we had had a not-very-good meal in a chain restaurant called Courtepaille. This was American-style (!) & not what one goes to France for.
The Puys (extinct volcano cores) from the Aire de la Centre de France, a motorway stop on the A71, north of Clermont Ferrand.
Just South of Clermont-Ferrand, we turned off the motorway to the West & followed through many pretty villages, stopping at St Amadin for an excellent lunch. Apchon was particularly striking because of its castle. We were heading for Puy Mary, which dominates several valleys, one of which leading to Aurillac was supposed to have Delaforce family connexions. But before Puy Mary, one drives up to the Col de la Serre.
Panorama North from the Col de la Serre
Apchon & its castle |
Puy Mary |
Col de Peyrol |
At the Col de Peyrol (not payroll), there are steps going up the Puy Mary & a howling gale coming down, so gave it a miss. We went down Vallé de Mandailles, round Aurillac (this is rocket science) & off down the Célé Valley to Maurs, where we spent the night in the Hotel Pleasance. This actually is a family hotel, if a bit basic. There was nowhere in Maurs for a coffee & cake but it was worth a look-round, as it is a circular bastide, with a road now replacing the wall.
Looking down the Vallé de Mandailles |
In the Vallé de Mandailles |
The Hotel Pleasance in Maurs |
The next day, we went along the Célé Valley, very pretty if a bit demanding on the driver, to Figeac, where we set off over country towards Toulouse. Villeneuve & Vilefranche are very pretty but the winner is Laguepie.
Part of the circular bastide of Maurs |
Maurs Church |
Laguepie |
Cordes-en-Ciel (in the sky) certainly is, piled up on a hill. After Toulouse, we turned off the A64 before Tarbes, quite a diversion, avoided Lourdes & went up the Col du Soulor of Tour-de-France fame. We have been before on our way to the Aubisque but this time, we went back to Pau to pick up the A64 again & on to our friends' chateau at St. Marie de Gosse.
Cordes-en-Ciel |
The café on the Col du Soulor |
The 'shrine' to the Tour de France in the Soulor café. |
The dodgy road up the Aubisque from the Soulor |
The road from the Col du Soulor down to Pau |
Our friends chateau at last |
Contact: Ken Baldry at 17 Gerrard Road, Islington, London N1 8AY
+44(0)20 7359 6294 or e-mail him
URL: http://www.art-science.com/Tourism/France/BZ3/index.html Last revised 1/12/2010 © 2010 Ken Baldry. All rights reserved.