Trip to Leipzig with the Anglo-German Family History Society
May 2003

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To Leipzig - where the German genealogy records are

but for Ken, this is Composer City

This was arranged by Ken with the help of Liz Allen, Anne-Marie Buckley & Madeleine Bradley, of Greencastle Travel.

Thursday 8th May 2003 Out & round Leipzig

Up at 0315 (!) after a not-too-bad night & actually away at 0340 in a Ryanair 737. The flight was on time (0625) and twenty minutes early at Berlin - Schönefeld, the old GDR main airport. I kept our bunch together & we soon found our courier, Gerhard Gunter. Confusingly, our coach driver was Gunter something. On the journey to Leipzig, about 2.5 hours plus a break, Gerhard told us more than we really needed to know about how the 'little village in the East', Leipzig (pop. half million), won the German nomination for the Olympic City bid against, Stuttgart, Hamburg, Frankfurt and Dusseldorf. In fact, he told us everything about everything & barely stopped talking, all this from memory. For the break, he used the term 'little conference' when I said 'Wir gehen zum Scheisshaus', which rather shocked him. It looks like 'Ortchen' is out. Back on the coach, I asked who wanted to go to a concert in the Gewandhaus tomorrow & got Gunter to ring them. He reserved the nine tickets we needed, just, although they are scattered all over the house. As we zoomed round the Inner City, he named every feature at top speed but people later said that a remarkable amount had sunk in as they mooched round the town, a popular activity during the hot, sunny afternoon. The hotel was better placed than I thought, being just in the Old Town opposite the vast station. I arranged an early dinner for the concert party tomorrow. Avis & I had lunch in the nearby 'Zuckerhut', huge salads & quite cheap. Then, I collected the tickets from the Gewandhaus & we appropriately went on to the Mendelssohn Haus museum. This has been refurbed & is quite a livable place, with interesting relics including some of his competent watercolours. We got in cheap, as they were arranging a banquet & it was very noisy. Good thing they didn't try to play music at the same time. We went on to the Lutheran Nikolaikirche, which was full of scaffolding but a very interesting layout with its white pews & gallery. The Nikolaischule opposite, where Wagner went, is a museum with its web address neatly painted on the wall. After dinner, we went for a mooch round the town, first to Wagner's birthplace now occupied by a ghastly aluminium-covered GDR department store. Later, we gathered this was to be pulled down. We went on to the Old Town Hall Square, packed with people in cafés & saw the delightful Baroque gem of the Old Bourse.

The Gewandhaus, changed a bit since Mendelssohn's day

Beethoven Statue

Mendelssohn Haus

The Opera House, trashed by
Bomber Harris & rebuilt

Nikolaikirche
front

Nikolaikirche
round the back

The Nikolaischule which Wagner attended

Friday 9th May 2003 Round Leipzig

The substantial breakfast at the Marriott is second only to that of the Prague Forum and makes up for the small dinner. I had distributed Leipzig maps earlier & Dresden maps yesterday. It was raining but soon stopped. I photoed the Wagner plaque & the Romanushaus in Brühl & we went down the Katharinenstrasse, which has fine old buildings on one side only. We found a big market in the Old Town Hall Square & went on right round the Thomaskirche before going in to hear someone practise on the new organ, a copy of Bach's own one. For me, this was like going into a Temple to Bach & a great moment. We went across to the Bach Museum & took the recorded commentary. The musuem is very good indeed but I was shocked to hear that the famous Mendelssohn performance of the St Matthew Passion was extremely inauthentic, with huge cuts & rescorings by the unqualified Mendelssohn himself. We had a coffee & walked down to the new Town Hall, a Wilhelmine monster in a scruffy setting, then went to Auberbach's Keller for lunch, more substantial salads for the roughage. It is easy to see why Goethe thought it the perfect setting for that scene in 'Faust'. Back to the hotel for a snooze & the early dinner. This left plenty of time to walk down to the Gewnadhaus (the Maloneys took a taxi) &, although it rained hard during dinner, it was dry after. Another group had gone to the organ recital in the Thomaskirche at 6, which they liked very much. A very mixed concert. After a shaky start, Haydn's 88th Symphony was ok given that there were too many strings, double what was needed. Then Hindemith's Organ Concerto, grossly overscored, went down like a lead balloon. Ligeti's glorious 'Atmosphares' started the second, followed by the Enigma Variations, sounding rather different in hands unused to it. A good time was had by all. Robert Hunt commented that a couple in front were getting off on the Hindemith & did not reappear. I declared that to be really kinky! We had coffee on the way back.

Bach memorial

Thomaskirche

In the Thomaskirche

Thomaskirche organ

Old Town Hall

Bourse

Goethe Statue

The Boss' last resting place

Monday 12th May 2003

Raining at first. We went to have a look at Leipzig's truly splendid railway station and then made an abortive attempt to find the Schumann House! We went back to the Augustus Square for coffee (it was quite cold). Then, back to the Thomaskirche for a last look & then, to the hotel for the 1200 pickup for Berlin. I organised a party photograph onto Dee's digital camera, see below. By now, it was sunny & we had a smooth trip to Berlin, stopping for lunch, after which I gave the tips to Gerhard & Gunter and also thanked the party for not being any trouble but dropped the bombshell that I would not do any other trips because of the 'loony in the family'.

Auerbach's Keller - see 'Faust'

The Market Square North side

Magnificent Railway Station

New Town Hall

Anglo-German Family History Society party

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Contact: Ken Baldry at 17 Gerrard Road, Islington, London N1 8AY +44(0)20 7359 6294 or e-mail him
URL: http://www.art-science.com/Tourism/AGFHS_trips/Leipzig/index.html © 2003 Ken Baldry. All rights reserved. Last revised 20/5/2003